Happy Birthday Cafe Fernando

This post comes with a warning, do not read it if you are even the slightest bit hungry (which I am, which is a problem).

Chocolate Hazelnut Cookies

I've been smitten with Cenk Sonmezsoy, writer, photographer and food stylist of Cafe Fernando for some time now. For starters, we both have ties to Istanbul and San Francisco. But more to the point, who wouldn't be smitten with delectable images like these?

Brownies My Way

Chocolate Desserts: Brownies My Way & Devil's Food Cake

Devil's Food Cake with Whipped Biscoff Ganache & Chocolate Shards

L'Orange

Or alluring recipes like Dolce & Gabbana Brownies, Pomegranate Jam and Nutella Tarts?

What I like most with my Behind the Bazaar eyes are his posts on Turkish cuisine - things like Feta Cheese and Mint Borek, Stuffed Vine Leaves and Karniyarik. (I warned you not to read this on an empty stomach ...)

Cigarette Borek and Mung Bean Salad

Just a few days ago Cafe Fernando celebrated its Fifth Birthday. Behind the Bazaar wishes you many, many more delicious birthdays to come Cenk.


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 All images copyright Cafe Fernando. Used with permission.

Istanbul Restaurant Week

Currently underway and running until November16th, Kayra Wines is sponsoring the first ever Istanbul Restaurant Week in the Nişantaşı neighborhood. If you are a foodie, this is a good opportunity for you to sample the variety of restaurants in the area at promotional prices and menus designed especially for this event.

 

Need some help making your reservations? Try using Rezztoran.com. (P.S. They'll help you whether it's restaurant week or not.) See their announcement and read some their recommendations for this event.

We wish you Afiyet Olsun!

{All images from Kayra Restoran Haftasi}

10 Romantic Things to do in Istanbul, Part 1

1 - Emirgan Park.  Beautiful woodland which has survived from the Bosphorus' ancient era. the gardens were a gift from Sultan Murad IV to his battlefield friend Emir Gune Han, the Prince of Iran, in the 17th century. Now publicly owned, the park boasts pretty pavilions, tranquil lakes and cafes with impressive tulip fields. 

Emirgan Park

2 - Belgrade Forest. Perfect for romantic picnics and a break from the city. The forest has plenty of paths for walking and cycling in any season. enjoy the scenery around the reservoirs built during the Ottoman era to feed the city's water supply.

Belgrade Forest, Istanbul

Image:Trekearth 

3 - Camlica Hill. Situated in Uskudar on the Asian side of Istanbul, the hill is 268 metres above sea level with sweet smelling pines and magnificent views of the Bosphorus. A favourite winter spot, there are Ottoman style tea-rooms at the top where you can sit cozily and sip hot Sahlep. In the summer, you can enjoy sitting amongst the rose bushes.

Camlica Hill, Uskudar

Image: Points of Turkey

4 - Aya Nikolat, Buyukada. One of the Princess Islands, even travelling to the island itself is romantic. Reached via ferry, vehicles are banned on the island so you can only cycle, walk or use the horse-drawn carriages. The Aya Nikolat Boutique Hotel boasts the most romantic 11 rooms in all Istanbul! Yilmaz Turk Cad, No: 104, Aya Nikola Mevkii, Buyukada, Istanbul Tel: 0.216.382 41 43

Aya Nikolat Boutique Hotel

5 – Ortakoy Square. Located along the Bosphorus in the district of Besiktas, the square is symbolized by the famous Ortakoy Mosque built on the seafront. Stroll around the street craft bazaars, enjoy baked potatoes or sit on a bench and feed the pigeons.

Ortakoy, Besiktas

An Exotic Pleasure - Haci Bekir Turkish Delight

Turkish delight is a delicacy which couldn't have been more aptly named - as it became known in Europe thanks to an English tourist who took the heavenly treat home with him and caused a small sensation.

While the very first versions of Turkish delight were invented by 16th century Ottoman confectioners, it went through several versions over the centuries until it was honed to perfection. The most popular types today are the pistachio, rose, coconut and almond, mint and the mastic. In truth, it's extremely difficult to choose a favourite as there are more than thirty varieties and they are all delicious.

A popular variety: Rose flavoured Turkish delight.

Haci Bekir first opened his little confectionery shop in Istanbul in 1777 where he would produce his delicacies in a small section in the back. Today, despite growing into several shops and earning worldwide renown, the authentic little shop in Bahcekapi, Istanbul is still run by the fifth generation of his family and they have carefully preserved his stove and equipment in the back room. It is the oldest business in Turkey operating from the same premises for nearly 250 years now.

Haci Bekir working at his counter: depicted in 'The Confectioner' by Count Preziosi. This painting now hangs in the Louvre Museum. Image: Orientalist Art

The same counter: the Bahcekapi shop today.

Although eating and sharing Turkish delight is traditionally saved for guests, special religious holidays or bearing as a gift to a dinner party in Turkey, we believe it is one of the ultimate feel-good treats to rival chocolate. Just a bite instantly makes you feel like a goddess (or a sultan).

Good quality, delicious Turkish delight can be bought in many reputable places in Istanbul and the luxurious treat is just one of those inimitable things that make us say, 'Turks do it better.'

Haci Bekir, Hamidiye Cad No. 81,Bahcekapi/Istanbul 34110

Tel: +90 212 522 85 43

Email: hacibekir@hacibekir.com.tr

Image credits: Haci Bekir A.S.

Fine Ottoman Cuisine at Asitane Restaurant

Chora Church and Asitane at night

Chora Church is a favorite museum for visitors to Istanbul, most famous for its mosaics and frescoes. As the tour buses shuttle visitors in and out, they pass by a 19th century mansion that has been restored and is now the Kariye Boutique Hotel. But the real treat is the Asitane Restaurant inside the hotel.

Asitane Dining Room

Serving fine Ottoman cuisine, Asitane describes its inspiration like this:

Imperial Authenticity

"The large and airy Asitane Restaurant serves imperial Ottoman cuisine, incorportating Central Asian, Anatolian, Middle Eastern and Balkan flavours, resulting from intensive research undertaken at three palace kitchens (Dolmabahce, Topkapi and Edirne) to test and recreate long-forgotten imperial dishes, whose recipes were traditionally kept secret. Some of the rediscovered dishes on the menu, such as veal in apple sauce, were serverd at the circumcision feast held for two of Suleyman's sons in 1539. The location might be off the beaten track, but Asitane is the one and only restaurant in the city where intrepid diners can experience such unlikely-sounding treats as almond soup. This is a restaurant for the serious culinary adventurer."

Rice with Aubergine

Personally, I don't think it takes a serious culinary adventurer to enjoy the meals here. All it takes is someone who appreciates tasty food simmered in a bit of history.

East Meets West

As Figen wrote in our welcome post, our partnership is built on our shared passion for modern and traditional Turkish arts (among other things). These are the things that catch our eye and get us asking questions. "What's that," we ask when we find something unique, well-designed, or well-crafted.
If you've ever been to Turkey, you will always be offered a glass of tea. It is a civilized and gracious gesture that invites you to slow down for a few moments while you sip the steamy beverage. In many cases it will be offered to you in a tulip shaped glass like this:

Traditional Turkish Tea Glass

During a visit to one of our favorite linen showrooms I was offered the customary glass of tea which I gladly accepted. Much to my delight, the tea came to me in this glass by Maybe Design:

East Meets West Tea Glass

As I mentioned above, we are enthralled by things that are modern but inspired by traditional Turkish design. This glass is called "East Meets West" in that it encompasses both the tulip-shaped Turkish glass and a traditional straight one. But seeing the tea suspended within is quite a surprise and makes the experience that much more enjoyable.
If you have a look at Maybe Design's website you'll notice they have branches in both Istanbul and Vienna, so it is little surprise that they would be inspired by these different cultures. I encourage you to have a look at some of their other products too as they are not things you're likely to see everywhere.
And as you browse their product catalog, why not enjoy a nice glass of tea?

Welcome to Behind the Bazaar

Centuries-old artisan workshops

Behind the Bazaar is the enfolding of a story which takes two expat women from a providential meeting in the nostalgic quarter of Istanbul known as Beyoglu on to a journey of friendship, partnership and creative discovery. Tara is an American and came to Turkey seven years ago when she married. She is a successful entrepreneur in her own right with company Citara's and blog Turquoise Poppy. Figen is half British/half Turkish and came to Turkey 16 years ago from London, also through love and marriage. She has built a very successful online business of her own, The Knit Box and also publishes her own designs.

With many similar passions and ideas, it only seemed right for us to join forces to create Intarsia Concept, which supports artisans, small businesses and creative endeavours. Behind the Bazaar was born out of a joint passion for Turkish arts - both traditional and modern and particularly those created by women, as well as our desire to share the many secrets of Istanbul with people who will appreciate them. For Behind the Bazaar, we will always be grateful to Linda Alepin.

A modern twist on traditional art by young, women designers

So, anyone who is a traveler, a discoverer, an entrepreneur or simply a lover of arts, crafts and design; welcome again to Behind the Bazaar.